Sarawak delights right here in KL
The tomato mee which we tried on a subsequent visit... damn good.
MAY 9 — My introduction to Sarawak Laksa was “fatal”, and I mean that in a good way: I got “fatally” hooked.
It’s a funny thing, this Sarawak Laksa. At risk of incurring the wrath of Sarawakians, it’s a little like curry laksa, only more pungent and has a pleasant sourish tang from the squeeze of lime juice. It’s not as over the top fiery as tom yam, so the spiciness doesn’t hit you like a locomotive, but it does have a peculiar way of getting under your skin.
At least that’s what happened to me when I backpacked to Kuching in 2005 and ended up wolfing down a bowl of Sarawak Laksa every single day. And longed for it like a pining lover after returning to the Peninsula. At the height of my fever-pitch obsession, I begged a Sarawakian friend to mail one packet of the laksa paste to me all the way from Kuching. The results, needless to say, were nothing to blog about.
The trouble with Sarawak Laksa is that it is so fiendishly difficult to do well. The recipe may not seem like much, but getting the formula of subtly spicy — an oxymoron, come to think of it — down pat is another matter altogether.
The Sarawak Laksa is the real deal here. No need to go to Kuching for a laksa fix now!
Just when I thought it was virtually impossible to find decent Sarawak laksa in Peninsular Malaysia, I got a tip-off from Carmen that a new cafe had just opened up in Kuchai Lama, Kuala Lumpur. I was pretty sure it would just be another insipid wannabe trying to cash in on a niche market when I heard the magic words: “Everything is from Sarawak, except the owner (who married a Sarawakian lass).”
Unlike books, you can actually judge a dish by its appearance. When the laksa came in a big bowl heaped with bean sprouts, shredded omelette, chicken slivers, a clutch of fresh de-shelled prawns, I thought to myself, good sign — it means the restaurant is not stingy.
So far so good, but as any laksa aficionado will tell you, the ultimate litmus test of any laksa is its broth.
This one had little flecks of chilli oil floating on the surface and the bits of ground spice clinging to the noodles, hinting at its potency. And taste like the Real McCoy it did — the broth was redolent of coconut milk, candlenut, chilli, garlic, tamarind and whatever spices go into making a kick-ass bowl of broth, plus just enough coconut milk to lend it a creamy consistency.
Concerned I might be biased, I pushed the bowl over to Frank who quipped after a sip, “Now you can even save on Air Asia ticket fare.”
There were more good surprises on the cards.
Three layer iced tea is giving my all-time white coffee a fight.
Once upon a time, I read about this drink Three Layer Iced Tea in Kenny Sia’s blog. He defined it as “three distinct layers of tea essence, sugar water and Ideal milk clearly separated in the glass. You’re supposed to stir it up before you gulp it down.”
If that’s the bellwether for authenticity, RB’s version seemed to have taken liberties with the original formula — it audaciously replaced sugar water with gula melaka, not that it was a bad thing at all. The luscious layer of gula melaka, buried under thick layers of evaporated milk and tea, imparted an appealing smoky accent.
I’ll summarise my verdict thusly: I never dreamed the day would come when any beverage could pose a serious challenge to my white coffee.
That day arrived today.
“It’s like a blend of cendol and iced teh si,” I mused aloud. “Intriguing formula but one that works.”
Frank wisecracked, “Iced Cendol Chai?” (Good food does wonders for our creative juices, Frank and mine!)
Pleased as a whistle over this accidental bonanza, we decided to test the limits of our stomach space even though we were stuffed to the gills (warning: the servings here are not pea-sized). The tomato mee, Santubong fried chicken, curry lamb rice and Waterfront nasi lemak all sounded tempting but too filling.
A taste of home... buttered toast sprinkled with sugar.
My eyes fell on a section called “tea bytes”. “How about sugared butter toast?”
Making this childhood comfort food is hardly rocket science; it’s essentially slapping butter and sprinkling sugar on a piece of bread and toasting it — yet the kitchen seemed to take forever and by the time our order arrived, we were fidgeting with impatience.
Our brewing disgruntlement swiftly evaporated when we saw our prize for a princely sum of RM1.20.
Two slices of crispy-outside, fluffy-inside toast, both sides generously scattered with sugar crystals. Slightly charred edges. Warmed just long enough for the bread to start soaking up the melting butter. Frank had a faraway look in his eyes when he murmured, “Just like how mum used to make it”.
“So are you going to write about it?” Frank looked at me after the waiter cleared our slate-clean plates away.
I stared at him in dismay. “I left my camera at home.”
“Small matter,” he smiled, “We’ll just have to make a repeat visit.”
So we did. This time, we even remembered to grab the name card.
Rajah Brooke Café, 19 Jalan Kuchai Maju 8, Off Jalan Kuchai Lama, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 016-868-5555).
Non-halal; Operating hours: 11am-10pm
Tags: sarawak laksa
May 11th, 2009 at 10:29 am
Dear Alexandra,
The 3 layer iced tea is known as “Teh Si Peng Special” here in Kuching.:) Urban legend has it that it was the creation of a coffee shop located in 7th Mile Bazaar (now known as Kota Padawan). Since you’re a coffee lover, it may interest you to know that the 3 layer is now so popular that in some coffee shops, you can even request for the coffee version.:)
I’m sure you hear this all the time but your articles are a fantastic read. Keep up the great work you’re doing. And if you’re ever in this part of the woods again, feel free to contact me for a laksa crawl.
Best rgds.
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May 13th, 2009 at 1:53 pm
Reading your blog gives me that utmost satisfaction in describing our sarawak laksa. I’m Sarawakian living in the States, laksa gravy packets are our traditional buying spree when we visit Kuching. You’re talking at least twenty packets, could fill your whole luggage or duffle bag. We do laksa party with family and friends at least once a month because it’s such a specialty. Could take a whole day just for preparation but it’s worth every penny. No malaysian restaurant here in the States can master the right ingredients and taste, it’s best you prepare it yourself.
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May 17th, 2009 at 11:35 am
Thank you for this “find”. I am a Sarawakian living in KL and seeking authentic Sarawak Laksa, tomato mee, kolo mee……. So I’m making a bee line to Rajah Brooke Cafe to try it out.
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May 20th, 2009 at 11:01 am
I believed the three layer tea actually started with gula melaka instead of sugar water
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May 21st, 2009 at 10:48 pm
I was told the three layer tea started with gula apong - from the palm tree and only available in Sarawak. Tastes really good, different from gula melaka.
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May 25th, 2009 at 8:10 pm
Hmm, i am pretty skeptical about Sarawakian food served in KL as not many ppl can serve a good original version. The tomato mee in the photo appears diff in terms of noodle and gravy color, while the Teh C Peng also doesnt look to convincing.
Maybe the Rajah Brooke Cafe owner should invite me for a food review session as I can be quite particular about whats a good kuching laksa, kolo mee and Teh C Peng special.
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June 1st, 2009 at 11:21 am
Well, i have been frequenting the kolomee and laksa stall at Pandan Indah for quite sometime now. It is quite good too. Consistency is my only complaint about that store.
Great review, will definitely go and try it.
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June 6th, 2009 at 7:45 pm
Wow, wow, wow!
Thanks everybody, for the feedback! Was away so I didn’t have the chance to check until now. It’s good to know that my reviews have at least, urm, 7 readers
And to Kablooey, if there is a forwarding address/email address, I’ll definitely take up your offer.
If you visit this post again, feel free to drop me a mail at alexandra.lywong@gmail.com
Cheers!
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July 9th, 2009 at 12:10 pm
Hmmm…took my family there last Sunday-04/07/2009…BUT all of us dissappointed!!!
Sarawka Laksa,Kolo Mee - flat taste, chicken rice & mee tomato..so so can eat la….only Teh Si Peng special everyone say good.
…need to fly back to Sibu/Kuching for the real Laksa and Kolo Mee.
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July 14th, 2009 at 4:09 pm
Tried Rajah Brooke sometime last month and was so disappointed as well, especially with the Kolo Mee, Tomato Kueh Tiaw and Salad Chicken Rice. The Tomato Kueh Tiaw gravy tasted funny. The Kolo Mee no kolo mee taste while the Salad Chicken Rice portion was quite small (especially the chicken) for RM8.90… Only thing good is the Teh C Peng Special and Laksa.
And they claim that they serve “Authentic Sarawakian Food” .. hmmppph
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July 15th, 2009 at 1:51 pm
Get real guys!!!! no one can prepare kuching laksa/kolo mee like our Kuching counterparts. I have tasted Singapore laksa, it tasted like curry mee, too lemak. As for me I prepare my own laksa, don’t have the luxury to just go out and order a bowl of special laksa in the morning. Apparently I’ve mastered the concoction with the laksa gravy and it taste better than I taught. It may take time to prepare but I will always have enough for the next few days or freeze some for those days when the cravings hit my stomach. Boy… do I miss my kopi-o-peng!!!
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July 16th, 2009 at 5:43 pm
Hey peeps am glad to hear some of you actually went and checked out the place
The few times that I was there, I found the food satisfactory. From my experience, there are two possible reasons for the discrepancy. One, the luck of the draw - I might have gone when when the chef was performing at peak condition, while some of you might have caught him/her on the wrong side of the stove. Two, the chef could have gotten wind that a reviewer was in da house and subsequently went the extra mile to conjure up an excellent dining experience. Will amp up the stealth factor to elude detection in my forays
Nevertheless, I really appreciate your feedback. It is invaluable to ensure we writers as well as restaurateurs keep our fingers on the pulse. Perhaps those of you who have gone forth and tried Rajah Brooke could email me at alexandra.lywong@gmail.com and elaborate on what was wanting.
Now after all this sturm und drang, my appetite is whetted. So, for the benefit of myself, and other pining fans, can some kind soul tell us where we can get the best Sarawak laksa in KL and PJ?
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July 19th, 2009 at 5:18 pm
I suggest you check this out. There is good Sarawak Laksa in Lucky Garden Bangsar. The stall-keeper is a chinese lady from Sarawak. She also serves kachangma, yam abacus, and pigs’ stomach soup with noodles besides S’wak Laksa. Corner coffee-shop close to some mamak/malay eating stalls and the Bangsar morning (wet) market. Enjoy…
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July 22nd, 2009 at 5:24 pm
Hey thanks Jude.
Now that you mention it, yes, I have heard of this Lucky Garden place. Will check it out as soon as possible, especially with the lure of exotic goodies like kachangma, yam abacus
BTW, I’m based in Ukay Heights in the last one month and stumbled upon this new stall by one Kak Siah, at the row of roofed warungs opposite 7-11.
If somebody is in the vicinity and doesn’t mind being a guinea pig, please let me know if that holds up to taste!
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July 28th, 2009 at 2:26 pm
RBC was a disappointment. My wife loves tomato ketchup mee. We however did not order this dish as using “yee mee” is not authentic. Instead, we ordered the kolo mee and 3 layered ice tea. We gave the tea top marks for the presentation and taste. We were terribly disappointed with the kolo mee. The colour and texture of the noodle is not that we know of and grew up with in Kuching. The noodle was more like the hakka mee found in food stalls in Klang valley. The lady at the cashier counter tried to reassure us that the kolo mee is authentic.. But what is the point of debating with someone who is not from Sarawak.
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August 3rd, 2009 at 11:10 am
Hey guys, perhaps the only way you can get authentic kolo mee (short of flying back to Sarawak ;)) is to make it at home. Here’s a recipe from a local Kch lady you could try: http://gregwee.blogspot.com/2009/02/kuching-kolo-mee.html
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August 14th, 2009 at 7:33 am
All this talk about Sarawak food is making me hungry!
Good thing I still have some laksa paste left somewhere in my fridge. Don’t even dream of getting it in Seoul. Even beehon is hard to get here. A bottle of Msian chili sauce cost like 2500 won (about RM 8+)
I agree with Jude, the laksa place in Lucky Garden place is not bad. It’s one of my favourite haunts when I was staying in KL but nothing beats a good bowl of Swk laksa from home!
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September 25th, 2009 at 1:39 pm
Rajah Brookes, the kolo mee is no way near the standard that you can get in Kuching. It has not way better than any of the other kolo mee shop around the Klang Valley, it is giving a very bad image of kolo mee to the people here. The one in Bintang Food Court (one of the best you can find in KL but still not the best compare with those back in KC), Pandan Indah, Pandan Perdana can are way better than the kolo mee in Rajah Brookes.
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