Truly Malaysian? Tourism Minister wants to stake claim on popular dishes

KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 18 — Malaysia is starting a food fight.

Laksa, nasi lemak, Hainanese chicken rice, chilli crab and bak kut teh are all Malaysian dishes, Tourism Minister Datuk Seri Dr Ng Yen Yen declared.

On Wednesday, Dr Ng accused other countries of “hijacking” local dishes such as laksa and nasi lemak, and said it was high time that Malaysia claimed them as Malaysian.

“We cannot continue to let other countries hijack our food,” she said, without naming the countries.

“Chilli crab is Malaysian. Hainanese chicken rice is Malaysian. We have to lay claim to our food,” the minister said after she launched the Malaysia International Gourmet Festival.

But some food critics disagreed, saying that it would not be possible for a country to claim ownership over the dishes.

Celebrity chef Rohani Jelani said that food in general is not politically divided.

As people move from one country to another, they also take with them the recipes of their favourite food.

“I think it is difficult to claim ownership or to say exactly what food originated from where. This is because there are no boundaries when it comes to food,” she told The Straits Times.

Singapore food celebrity K.F. Seetoh agreed that it would be impossible for anyone to claim ownership over food, even if a certain dish is easily available at a certain place.

“It is better to lay claim by association,” he suggested.

“For example, burgers are not from America, but they are associated with America,” said Seetoh, who hosts popular TV show Makansutra on the Asian Food Channel.

Dr Ng said that her ministry was identifying the popular dishes, which are also available in neighbouring countries, and would declare them as Malaysian in the next three months.

“We have identified laksa... all types of laksa, nasi lemak and bak kut teh,” The Star newspaper quoted her as saying.

But she did not say how her ministry would label the dishes as Malaysian.

The Tourism Minister's announcement came as Malaysia and Indonesia were working hard to resolve a dispute alleging that Malaysia “stole” Indonesian culture such as batik and claimed it as its own. — The Straits Times

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